Performing that initial spring check-over is important, and also not complicated.

By the time you read this, you may already have your bike out and may have pounded a few hundred kilometres on it, as well. Which part of the country you call home will have a big impact on when you get your bike out, since points between the west coast and the east coast have vastly different weather patterns that will undoubtedly determine your first spring ride.

As the days get warmer, we get anxious to point our wheels down the open road again — but you might want to do a few simple checks of your machine first.

It’s well worth taking a few minutes to go over the following checklist or refer to your owner’s manual. If you prepped your bike properly in the fall, you could be on the road in no time. If you didn’t prep your bike properly for winter storage, this checklist is even more important.

Even if you don’t take a hands-on approach and instead enlisted your dealership to look after your bike at the end of last year’s riding season, store it and get it ready for spring, this checklist is still useful, as it contains simple tasks that you should be performing on a regular basis throughout the riding season. 

Many of these simple checks should be performed on a daily or at least on a weekly basis and should be part of your regular riding regimen. To make the checklist easy to remember, there is an acronym for the list of daily or weekly checks — T-CLOCS, which stands for:

T-CLOCS 

T – Tires (and wheels)

C – Controls

L – Lights (and electrical)

O – Oil (and fluids)

C – Chassis

S – Stands

TIRES AND WHEELS

Not enough can be said about the condition of your tires. Obviously, air pressure is the most common item people think of but be sure to check the general condition of the tire carcass: inspect tread depth, make sure there are no cords or threads visible, and check the wear indicators. These are the slightly raised bumps at the bottom of the tread, and when the tread meets those, it’s absolutely time to change your tires. But common sense must prevail. If the tread looks low, play it safe and get new rubber. Also, carefully check for sidewall cracks after confirming the proper tire pressure.

If your bike is equipped with spokes, try squeezing them together. If they move at all, your spokes need to be tightened. Or gently tap them with a small wrench. If you hear a “ping,” they are likely okay, but if you hear a “thud,” that spoke is loose. 

On any type of rim, check for damage where the tire meets the rim. Has any grease been leaking from the bearing seals? If yes, have them fixed. Grasp the top of the wheels and try to wiggle side to side. If you feel any play, your wheel bearings need attention.

On most bikes with disc brakes, you should be able to see the brake pads if you position yourself just right (there are two of them per caliper, one on each side of each rotor). Have a quick look to ensure there is some brake lining left on them.

CONTROLS

Check all levers and pedals, especially the brakes, for operation before you get out on the road. Make sure you have a good solid feel to the brake pedal and lever. A soft or spongy feel usually indicates air in your hydraulic system, and this should be looked after right away. Your brake fluid should be changed every couple of years as it absorbs moisture and begins to break down over time.

Be sure to have a look at the flexible hoses for your front and rear brake system. Check for cracks or any kind of damage to the rubber coating. Old hydraulic hoses get soft and could also make the brakes feel spongy.

Make sure the clutch lever pulls smoothly. If it doesn’t, it may indicate a frayed cable or one that needs to be lubricated. The same thing goes for your throttle cables: when the throttle is opened and let go it should snap back.

LIGHTS AND ELECTRICAL

After re-installing your fully charged battery for this riding season, be sure the connections are secure and, while you’re at it, try to wiggle the positive cable on the starter and the negative cable on the frame if you can get to them. The starter connection especially gets a fair bit of vibration and the cable can loosen up. 

Inspect the wiring under the seat. Remember, mice love battery boxes for their winter homes and they love to chew on wiring.

Now would be a good time to check your air filter.

Check the handlebar switchgear and the components they control like the horn, turn signals, high beam, and so forth. Also remember to check the brake light’s operation with both the rear brake pedal and the front brake lever.

OIL AND FLUIDS

Check your engine oil — this should be done before every ride or two, anyway. Refer to your owner’s manual for the proper procedure. Some bikes use a dipstick while either resting on the side stand or standing straight up, and others use a sight glass that is usually in an impossible spot for a single person to see, so a second person or a mirror comes in pretty handy.

And if your bike is liquid-cooled, don’t forget to check the engine coolant.

If your bike has a driveshaft for its final drive, check your owner’s manual for the proper procedure for checking the fluid in the differential. 

If you filled your fuel tank and used a fuel conditioner in the fall, you should be okay to start your bike up and ride as normal. If you didn’t fill the tank up, look inside and check if the gasoline is cloudy, which indicates moisture from condensation. If it’s cloudy you may want to drain the fuel and the carburetor float bowl (if your bike is carbureted) and replace it with clean gasoline.

CHASSIS

If you are able to lift the front end of the bike off the ground, turn your steering from left lock to right lock and feel for any tight or rough spots caused by an indentation in the steering head bearings. Pull and push on your handlebars to check for looseness in the steering head. If you feel any tight or rough spots or any looseness, have it checked and repaired right away.

Check the frame junctions and welds for cracks, especially on older bikes. Flaking or cracked paint at a welded juncture could indicate hidden problems and should be investigated.

If you are able to lift the rear tire off of the floor, grab the back of the tire and try to move it side to side. Any movement indicates the swing-arm bushings or bearings needs to be adjusted or replaced. This will be most noticeable while cornering; the back end will feel loose.

Check the final drive chain or belt as per the owner’s manual and adjust as necessary.

Put a wrench on the nuts and bolts throughout the chassis to ensure they are snug. Look for any missing cotter pins, fasteners, and damaged threads.

Check front and rear suspension components by making sure they compress and rebound smoothly. Sitting on and off the bike should smoothly compress and rebound the rear suspension as well. 

Be sure to lubricate all grease nipples if there are any. If you are unsure of their location, refer to your owner’s manual.

STANDS

Make sure that side and centre stands are working properly and smoothly. Ensure the side stand ignition cutout switch works or adjust accordingly. Check mounting bolt tightness and that the return springs are in good condition and not loose. If you lose a spring, your kickstand will fall down and drag along the ground. This could be especially detrimental to your health if you are on a right-hand bend and your side stand swings out into its fully extended position.

Okay, so you have checked out your bike and you feel it is time to start it up, remember to always let the engine warm up first. Your engine will thank you for it later in its life.

And don’t forget about tuning yourself up. Take it easy, go to an empty parking lot and reacquaint yourself with the brakes and the weight of the bike. Watch for annual spring hazards like sand in the corners, and remember cold tires on cold pavement will result in less grip on the road. All of which can ruin a perfect cornering experience if you’re not careful. 

Enjoy your riding season.